A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk

The press release reads: “This provocative and wide spanning book looks at the history of fashion through a queer lens.”

The biggest problem here is that this quote builds the expectation for an exciting telling of fashion history. Alas, the reality is far apart from the expectation due to the decidedly pedantic, dry, and analytic tone taken rather than a simple, chronological, revelatory approach.

What can be said is that this is an exhaustive study that borders on textbook complexity rather an accompaniment to a museum exhibit featuring clothing. The fact heavy, study ridden, statistical examination turns this book away from a fashion point of view to a decidedly more sociological one.

There is a huge dearth in the skimpy assortment of photographic examples within the book. Then there is a preponderance of text spent on Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior. And using Simon Doonan as a reliable source for insight on the psychological aspects of being a designer proves less than compelling.

This is not the first book to be published in conjunction with a museum show but it might be the first where the written word takes precedence over the visuals. To complicate matters, the content is told in an almost clinical tone, which might convince the reader this is more a book to fulfill coursework rather than a volume of fascinating fashion history.

This is not a photo-centric history nor is it a coffee table book. A Queer History of Fashion might be considered a much more cerebral and thinking man’s view of fashion with respect to “queer history” rather than the kind of book you might want to keep out on display for esthetic reasons or curl up in bed with. Consider it a reference book steeped in the more intellectual side of fashion.

There is nothing frivolous—or fun—here.