Jewels of the Romanovs: Family & Court

Image of Jewels of the Romanovs: Family & Court
Author(s): 
Release Date: 
October 22, 2013
Publisher/Imprint: 
Thames & Hudson
Pages: 
352
Reviewed by: 

Here’s the thing about Jewels of the Romanovs: This is a book that is as much about the incredible jewels as it is about the Romanov dynasty, spanning three centuries of rule over mother Russia.

To say that the jewels are opulent or extravagant or over the top wouldn’t even begin to describe the incredibly lavish and luxurious pieces—even excessive would be understatement. One can ascertain that what the women of the Romanovs lacked in looks they more than made up for in earthly possessions, namely jewels the opulence of which stagger the most vivid of imaginations.

“. . . this exceptional collier d’esclave is formed with a string of 21 cushion shaped diamonds . . . suspended are 15 smaller diamonds . . . with a total weight of 475 old carats . . . the center stone is 32 carats . . .”

If your knowledge of “haute joallerie” includes words such as devant de corsages, aigrettes, riviere, coronet, tiare Russe, and kokoshnik, then, boy, do I have a book for you! The ruling Romanovs had a passion for diamonds of every conceivable color and cut. Mr. Papi affords the reader a voyeur’s delight with the photographs.

What is to be gleaned from this amazing presentation is that the Romanovs were hoarders of the first order who amassed extraordinary pieces of jewelry. The crown jewels of England might be set against them for their sheer extravagance, but my guess is that the Romanovs’ collection would win hands down.

The marquee names in fine jewelry are not as evident as you would think. One is also made keenly aware that the House of Faberge was not just about eggs. The reader also learns that a good deal of these awe-inducing pieces were manufactured with sterling settings instead of white gold and platinum. Imagine that ornaments of diamonds and pearls were made to be sewn onto clothes to be removed when the garment fell out of favor or was passed on.

The historical aspect of Mr. Papi’s book provides a total family tree of the Romanovs’ jewels—minus the genealogical chartings. We are talking brothers, sisters, aunts, uncles, cousins, and more and what they owned, when. These Russians sure knew how to gift one other and had an uncanny sense of how to wear their jewels for the utmost effect, regardless of the occasion.

The takeaway here is that Jewels of the Romanovs is an immensely enjoyable book that merits a place as a conversation piece on your coffee table as well as a great source of history, both textually and visually.